Sediment Flux In A Rip Channel On A Barred
Intermediate Beach Under Low Wave Energy
Author(s)
B. Greenwood, R. W. Brander, E. Joseph, M. G. Hughes,
T. E. Baldock & T. Aagaard
Abstract
The classic model of water and sediment flux in barred surf zones is a net flux
landward across a nearshore bar, alongshore in a feeder channel, and offshore in
narrow jet-like flows in a rip neck cut through the bar; this circulation is
frequently modulated by the tide, even under micro-tidal conditions. Water
levels, waves, currents and suspended sediment transport (SST) were recorded at
elevations of z = 0.13, 0.26 and 0.39 m in a rip neck on an intermediate bar-rip
beach at a micro-tidal site, Bennett's Beach, NSW, Australia. Measurements
revealed SST was driven by quasi-steady rip currents and by gravity and
infragravity waves. The balance between these components determined the
magnitude and direction of the overall net SST. Tentative conclusions are that:
(i) the direction of the overall net SST rate in the rip neck was dominated, as
expected, by offshore-directed mean cross-shore currents, especially around high
tide; at this time the SST rates due to gravity and infragravity waves were
relatively small and somewhat variable in direction.
(ii) as the tide fell, relatively large SST rates were directed onshore by
shoaling gravity waves propagating through the neck, which opposed and even
exceeded the rip current transport. At mid-tide, the transport by infragravity
waves complemented the gravity waves such that the overall net flux of
Keywords
rip currents, sediment flux, wave and tide modulation
Related Book
Other papers in this volume
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