Wave Climate And Coastal Processes In The
Osmussaar–Neugrund Region, Baltic Sea
Author(s)
Ü. Suursaar, R. Szava-Kovats & H. Tõnisson
Abstract
The aim of the paper is to investigate hydrodynamic conditions in the Neugrund
Bank area from ADCP measurements in 2009–2010, to present a local long-term
wave hindcast and to study coastal formations around the Neugrund. Coastal
geomorphic surveys have been carried out since 2004 and analysis has been
performed of aerial photographs and old charts dating back to 1900. Both the in
situ measurements of waves and currents, as well as the semi-empirical wave
hindcast are focused on the area known as the Neugrund submarine impact
structure, a 535 million-years-old meteorite crater. This crater is located in the
Gulf of Finland, about 10 km from the shore of Estonia. The depth above the
central plateau of the structure is 1–15 m, whereas the adjacent sea depth is 20–
40 m shoreward and about 60 m to the north. Limestone scarp and accumulative
pebble-shingle shores dominate Osmussaar Island and Pakri Peninsula and are
separated by the sandy beaches of Nõva and Keibu Bays. The Osmussaar scarp
is slowly retreating on the north-western and northern side of the island, whereas
the coastline is migrating seaward in the south as owing to formation of
accumulative spits. The most rapid changes have occurred either during
exceptionally strong single storms or in periods of increased cyclonic and wave
activity, the last high phase of which occurred in 1980s–1990s.
Keywords: wave hindcast, coastal dynamics, impact crater, climate change.
Keywords
wave hindcast, coastal dynamics, impact crater, climate change
Related Book
Other papers in this volume
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