Statistical Properties Of Nonlinear Random Waves Over Surf And Swash Zone
Price
Free (open access)
Transaction
Volume
43
Pages
10
Published
1999
Size
643 kb
Paper DOI
10.2495/CE990291
Copyright
WIT Press
Author(s)
Yong Jim Cho & Yong Sik Cho
Abstract
Statistical characteristics of the modification in random wave field due to intensified nonlinearity in the surf zone and sequential breaking was investigated using Run 1 of Kraus et al. [2]. It turns out that envelope and radiation stresses distribution are severely modified by intensified nonlinearity. Once a breaking is activated in random wave field, a hump begins to be formed in envelope distribution. We also found that the water level rise induced by the excessive momentum flux deficit in waves approaching from a breaker line also have profound effects on phase distribution. With a depth as the length scale of prevailing turbulence in the surf zone, the spectrum of fluctuating velocity was e
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